TACOMA COILOVER SUSPENSION SYSTEM INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS

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• Intro
• Start
• Rear Frame Section
• Forward Frame Section
• Toyota-Based Diamond Axle Housing
• Shock Hoop Installation
• Preliminary Assembly
• Steering Stabilizer Installation
• Installing the ORS Brake Lines and Hoses
• Finish
• Shock Hoop Crossover Tube
• Notes
• Diamond Axle Order Specs
• Completed Pics
• CAD Diagrams
• Coilover FAQ's

INTRO

Congratulations on the purchase of your ORS (Off Road Solutions) Coilover Suspension System. We truly hope you enjoy your system and thank you for choosing this product.

NOTICE TO CUSTOMER: The quality, strength, fit, and finish of this product is the responsibility of the installer and/or customer. This kit is only as good as the install. This is a weld-on kit intended for experienced and competent fabricators with at least a basic knowledge of suspension fundamentals. This kit is intended to be MIG or TIG welded (using at least a 220 volt power source) to the vehicle with the proper equipment and adequate skill.

This kit is designed for off-road use only. Off Road Solutions makes no guarantees of street-driven performance or ability. In many areas, fabricated suspension is illegal for street use; check your local laws if this is of concern.

In many cases this kit will require the customer to disable the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System). This is also illegal in many areas. This is the sole responsibility and decision of the installer/customer.

The airbag uses a "clock spring" assembly inside the steering wheel that can easily be broken from over-steering. Some solid axle setups may over-extend this spring, causing the airbag and horn to be inoperative. Custom work or elimination of these components may be involved in this case. Disabling an airbag system and/or horn is illegal for street use in many areas. This is also the installer’s/customer’s responsibility.

By installing this kit, the customer/installer agrees to and understands the above statements.

Read all instructions completely before beginning installation. The customer or installer is responsible for contacting ORS with any possible problems before installation.

NOTE: DO NOT charge the shocks until final assembly.

Pictures of an installed system can be found at the end of the instructions for reference throughout installation.

A few abbreviations you will see throughout this document:

• LCA – Lower Control Arm
• UCA – Upper Control Arm
• ABS – Anti-lock Braking System
• IFS – Independent Front Suspension
• EVAP – Evaporative Emissions System
• D/S – Driver Side
• P/S – Passenger Side

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START

These instructions are written with a full installation on a "stock" truck in mind. Many vehicles may already have a modified suspension and all the instructions may not apply, but be careful not to skip over any important steps. These instructions are also intended for use with a full kit and ORS accessories, use discretion when your parts differ.

1) Securely support the truck by the frame. If using jack-stands, we recommend setting the truck at the desired end ride height. We recommend that this height is 5"-7" above stock height (not including lift from tires). If using leaf-spring rear components, we recommend installing these components first in order to get an idea of ride height. NOTE: If using the rear suspension to gauge ride height, do so with the weight of the truck on both front and rear suspensions. Measure this height from a reference point at the center of the rear axle, such as bumpstop to spring.
2) Remove the front suspension and drive-train components. This includes the front differential, driveshaft, axles, knuckles, control arms, torsion bars, shocks, steering components, etc.
3) Seal the brake system to prevent draining the brake master cylinder. Carefully move the remaining front brake lines and hoses out of harms way. If the truck was originally ABS and the front axle used does not have wheel speed sensor provisions (most), the ABS actuator and related lines can also be removed at this time. See the diagram at the end of these instructions for recommended brake plumbing.
4) Remove the fan shroud, radiator, radiator hoses, intake system (airbox), igniter, and battery. Remove the fuse box mounting hardware but do not remove from vehicle. Remove all power steering plumbing to the steering pump.
5) Disconnect the battery cable harness from the starter, block, retainers and alternator. Follow this harness to the battery, disconnecting from the body clip. Remove the fuse box cable from the positive battery terminal, the ground terminal from the body and disconnect this harness in the fuse box. Remove the battery harness from the vehicle.
6) Make a drawing of the EVAP canister to engine hose routing. Disconnect the wiring and plumbing from the EVAP canister. Remove the EVAP canister from the driver-side fender-well.
7) Be sure to seal all brake lines going into the system to prevent draining the master cylinder.
8) Remove the catalytic converters(s) from the vehicle and plug the exhaust pipes w/ rags and tape.
9) Remove the steering shaft assembly with the firewall plate (unbolts from inside).
10) Cover all open holes and plug all open hoses with tape or rags. Completely shield the engine, remaining components, and plumbing from welding and cutting debris with welding blankets, wet blankets, thick aluminum foil, etc. – whatever works.
11) Important: Cut a piece of metal pipe or tubing and place between the frame rails, forward of the front body mounts. Firmly tack-weld in place. This will prevent frame collapse, warping during this install. Do this before cutting any brackets from the frame.
12) Using a plasma cutter, cutting torch, or cutoff tool; cut all IFS components from the frame. This includes the control arm mounts, shock mounts, and steering system mounts. Cut the back end of the shock mounts away carefully, leaving plenty of material for the motor mount to attach to. See Illustration 1.

13) Clean the frame with a sander/grinder. We highly recommend the use of a 4" or larger sander. Take care not to "thin out" the frame. If there are "divots" do not keep sanding until they are smooth, this will thin the frame. Leave them alone or spot-weld, then sand for repair. See Illustration 2.

14) If necessary, repair the motor mount area w/ weld and/or a fabricated plate. See Illustration 3.

15) Install a rear sump oil pan kit. If the kit was purchased from ORS, use the instructions provided with that kit. ORS offers a drill guide to assist in drilling the dipstick hole on ’00 and newer models.
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REAR FRAME SECTION

16) Support the transmission/transfer case securely. Remove the OEM transmission cross-member. Cut the OEM cross-member mounts from the frame and grind the surface clean.

17) Install the Front Range Off-Road transfer case cross-member per instructions. We recommend raising the drive-train as high as possible in the vehicle, this will make the suspension install easier and provide more ground clearance. See Illustration 4.
18) If fabricating a custom cross-member, securely support the transmission with heavy duty ratchet straps. We recommend fabricating a custom cross-member once the suspension is mocked up to avoid any interference with the suspension brackets.
19) Install the LCA frame brackets. Using the diagram, carefully measure and place these brackets on the frame. In some cases the rear of the LCA frame brackets will have to be trimmed to fit the Front Range crossmember frame brackets.
20) Draw a line around these brackets on the frame and remove the brackets. Thoroughly clean the paint from the frame around these lines to provide a clean welding surface. Install the LCA brackets again. Tack-weld the brackets firmly in place. See Illustration 5.

21) Using the diagram for measurement, hold the provided UCA inner frame plate in place (inside of D/S frame-rail). Mark the outline of the plate on the frame.
22) Remove the plate and clean the frame paint along these marks. Carefully tack-weld the plate into place. Using a mallet and clamps, bend the lower section of the plate against the bottom of the frame. Tack weld into place. Using a .75" hole saw, drill a hole perpendicular through the frame in each plate hole. Place the provided UCA Frame Sleeves through the holes. Use a small die grinder to further fit if necessary.
23) With the sleeves in place, install the provided UCA outer frame plate in place using the same method as the inner plate.
24) Fully weld the sleeves and plate into place. Be sure to shield the brake and fuel lines above the UCA frame before welding (carefully bend these lines out of the way if necessary). See Illustrations 6 & 7.


25) Using the diagram, place the UCA frame bracket on the inside UCA frame plate. Tack weld-the bracket in place. Be sure to align the bottom of the UCA bracket with the bottom of the frame. See Illustrations 8, 9 & 10. NOTE: do not install lower plate at this time.



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FORWARD FRAME SECTION

26) Using the diagram, place the frame plates on the frame. Be sure the paint is cleared of all welding surfaces. If necessary, clean paint using the previous method.

27) Firmly tack-weld the outer frame plates in place. Double check all measurements for accuracy. See Illustrations 11, 12 & 13.



28) Using a mallet or clamps, bend the upper and lower contact pads into place and tack-weld. See Illustration 14.

29) Locate the 3 steering gear holes in the front of the driver-side outer frame plate. Using a 1/2" drill bit, drill out these holes perpendicular through the frame.
30) Clamp the inner D/S frame plate in place. Carefully place this plate so the front, upper, and lower surfaces mirror the outer plates’ location on the frame. The drilled holes should be roughly centered in the larger holes of the inner plate (depending on how perpendicular they were drilled). Tack-weld the D/S inner plate in place.
31) Using a hole saw, torch, or plasma cutter, cut a 3/4" hole in the frame, in the center of the inner frame plate holes. Place the provided sleeves into the frame until they stop on the outer frame-rail surface. If necessary, further fit holes with a die grinder. All 3 sleeves are different in length; use the proper length for uniform length protruding from the frame.
32) Install the steering gear, sleeves, and provided hardware in place (washers on inside of frame) and tighten the hardware. Make sure all sleeves bottom out on the inside of the outer frame rail and all sleeves are relatively perpendicular to frame. See illustration 15. NOTE: The front of the steering gear may contact the body. We recommend trimming the body to clear the steering gear.

33) Tack-weld the frame sleeves in place against the inner frame plate. See illustration 16.

34) Cycle the steering gear. The pitman arm should safely clear the bottom of the frame rail during the full steering cycle.
35) Fabricate the steering shaft and install the new firewall plate. Parts can be obtained from a speed shop to fabricate from new supplies. Be careful to center the "clock spring" in the steering wheel before testing. This is fragile and can be broken from over-steering, causing an inoperative horn and airbag.
36) If using the stock steering shaft parts you will also need a used steering shaft from a ’84-’88 4x4 Truck or 4Runner. Carefully disassemble the double U-joint assembly in the Tacoma steering shaft, be sure to file away the cap "stakes" before disassembly. Cut the coupling section from the U-joint assembly. Cut the protruding end from the male end of the Tacoma shaft. Re-assemble the Tacoma steering shaft using 1 U-joint. Install this part to the lower end of the steering column. Cut the ’84-’88 steering shaft until it can be installed on the steering gear and mated on the other end to the modified Tacoma steering shaft. Install the steering plate, tack weld the 2 shaft together and cycle the steering to be sure everything fits. See illustrations 17, 18 & 19.



37) Remove the steering gear and hardware.
38) Locate the P/S inner frame plate to its proper location and tack weld into place.
39) Fully weld the frame plates and steering gear sleeves to the frame. See Illustration 20.

40) Once cooled, re-install the steering gear and steering shaft, tighten the hardware.
41) Using the diagram, carefully place and tack-weld the panhard frame bracket to the frame. See Illustration 21. Double check the distance between the LCA and panhard frame bracket shown on the diagram.

42) Using the diagram, tack-weld the bumpstop brackets to the frame. See Illustration 22 (shock hoop will be added later).

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TOYOTA BASED DIAMOND AXLE HOUSING

43) See the Diamond Axle spec sheet and diagram at the end of these instructions. This kit is designed around these specs.
44) If using an axle besides the Diamond Axle it is the installer’s responsibility to properly locate all axle brackets and mounts. Carefully use the diagrams to ensure proper placement.
45) Be sure all bracket surfaces are clean of paint, rust, and dirt before tack-welding brackets into place.
46) We recommend that welding is done with the differential in place. Shield the differential and all knuckle/brake components before fully welding.
47) On a level surface (workbench, table), secure the axle housing in place. Rotate the housing and precisely set at 4 degrees of + caster. See diagram. Caster can be measured with an accurate level gauge from the machined surface of the lower trunion bearing cap (with knuckles installed and bearings properly pre-loaded). Without knuckles installed, caster can be measured with an accurate-diameter machined rod inserted through the trunion bearing bores.
48) Using the diagram and Illustrations 23 & 24, create reference marks on top of the housing for the UCA axle bracket. The pictured alignment angle of the UCA bracket is 10 degrees. Carefully tack-weld the UCA axle bracket into place.


49) Using the diagrams, carefully locate the LCA brackets on the axle housing. Tack-weld into place. Be sure the rotational height matches the UCA bracket comparison and both sides are the same height.
50) Using the diagrams and Illustration 25 (weld later), carefully locate the panhard axle bracket and tack-weld into place. As the diagram shows, this bracket will be rotated 5 degrees forward of a perpendicular to level plane.

51) Using Illustration 26, place the lower shock mounts on the axle housing. They are shaped to locate themselves over the steering stops. Some trimming may be necessary. Tack weld the shock mounts into place.

52) If not already done, fully assemble the axle housing, including the steering arms and tie rod. Be sure the steering arms are properly torqued. Be sure to double-check this torque periodically throughout the life of the vehicle.
53) Cycle the steering. Be sure the tie rod does not strike the panhard bracket (with bolt installed) at full steer. Adjust the panhard bracket if necessary.
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SHOCK HOOP

54) Using the diagram, locate the shock hoops on the frame. The shock hoops are labeled P/S and D/S.
55) Trim the inner fender-wells until the shock hoop can be installed. Be sure all components, wires, lines and hoses are out of harms way before cutting.
56) Use the provided diagrams for preliminary shock hoop placement. The rear hoop "leg" is the shorter of the two, as labeled. Set the hoop toward the top of the frame. See Illustration 27.

57) Trim the shock hoops to achieve the proper mounting angle. Use the diagram for a rough idea on upper shock mount location. Be sure the D/S shock hoop will be clear of the steering shaft. Tack-weld the shock hoops in place.
58) Place the coilover shocks on a bench or table. Using the provided 1/2" x 3" bolts and the shock tabs, assemble the tabs, spacers, and shocks as if they were mounted on the vehicle. Place 2 1/2" washers on each side of the shock spacers. Cycle the shock bearing to be sure the tabs will not strike the shocks at any point. See Illustration 28.
59) Measure the distance between the tabs. Disassemble.
60) Using only flat washers, re-assemble the tabs with the same distance between them. Do this for both sides. See Illustration 29.

61) Using the diagram, locate the upper shock tabs on the shock hoops. The tabs should be placed near the top center of the hoop bend, facing outward. The tabs should be perpendicular to the hoop or a little lower. Tack-weld the tabs in place. It is important that their locations match on each side of the vehicle.
62) Check for shock clearance against all components under the hood. Make any adjustments necessary.
63) Firmly tack-weld the hoops and tabs in place.
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PRELIMINARY ASSEMBLY

64) Grease the inside and outside of the control arm bushings with bushing grease or multi-purpose wheel bearing grease. Install the provided large bushings into the lower and upper control arms. These are a slight press-fit so a bench vise, soft mallet, or press will be necessary. Install the provided bolt sleeves in the large bushings.
65) Grease and install the provided small bushing into the end of the panhard rod.
66) Apply anti-seize to the threads of all threaded control arm joints. Install the 2.5"x1.25" Johnny Joints or the 1.25" heim joints into the end of the lower control arms. Adjust the arms to 38.5" from center to center of the mounting holes.
67) Install the 2.5"x1"Johnny Joint or the 7/8" heim joint into the end of the upper control arm. Adjust to 28" from center to center of the mounting holes.
68) Install the 7/8" heim joint into the end of the panhard rod and adjust to 37" from center to center of the mounting holes.
69) With the shocks on the bench measure their length when fully compressed and fully extended. Record these measurements, they will be used later. Also, be sure the shocks are discharged (nitrogen).
70) Using the provided hardware (see hardware list), assemble the suspension for testing. Install the shocks without springs. Install the bump stops.
71) Using a tape measure set the toe, (using tie rod length) to the best of your ability. We recommend 0 toe to start with.
72) Center the steering on the axle. Center the steering gear (steer wheel should be in center of rotation at this point). Adjust the drag link to fit and install.
73) If the bumpstop pads are not already installed on lower control arms, do so now. With the suspension compressed reference where the bumpstop contacts the lower control arm. Raise the suspension. See Illustration 30.

74) Tack-weld the bumpstop pads in place on a level plane with the large bushing through-bolt. See illustration 31.

75) Using a lift, jack, or whatever necessary, cycle the suspension straight up and down. Thoroughly check for clearance of all components including oil pan to panhard and steering. Be sure these steps are performed safely. See Illustrations 32,33,34.



76) Now cycle the suspension side to side (articulate, flex). With one side fully compressed at the bumpstop, cycle the suspension until the other shock is fully extended (use length measurements already taken). Make sure there is about 1/4" of compression left in the compressed shock (amount of shock rod showing). Remove and adjust the shock tabs and/or hoops to adjust if necessary. Repeat this step on the other side.
77) If necessary, different height bumpstop sets are available for future adjustment.
78) Once the shock mounts are properly placed, measure a mounting location for the upper limit strap tab. This will be on the frame, near the rear shock hoop leg. Fasten the lower end of the limit strap through the lower hole in the lower shock mounts. See Illustration 35.

79) The upper limit strap tab should be placed so that the strap stops the axle downward movement 1/4" - 1/2" before full shock extension. The strap will stretch under load, so plan on the strap stretching 1" per every 12" of static length, that should be 1.6" for a 20" strap. If it is not possible to fully stretch the straps with suspension movement at this time, perform this step later, once the truck can be driven to a suitable location.
80) Tack-weld the limit strap tabs in place and test. Be sure the bumpstop will stop the upward travel and the limit strap will stop the downward travel (with stretch) of the suspension with 1/4" – 1/2" of shock travel remaining on each end. Repeat this step for both sides.
81) Check for shock hoop/tab to shock body interference throughout the suspension cycle. Adjust the upper shock tabs if necessary.
82) Make any adjustments and perform further testing if necessary.
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STEERING STABILIZER

83) Note: A steering stabilizer will not be needed on vehicles with hydraulic steering (RAM) assist.
84) Set the truck at ride height. Center the steering.
85) Determine centered length of the stabilizer. The Fox stabilizers are already fully charged and will be very difficult to compress by hand. Measure the extended length (center of eye to center of eye) and determine compressed length. Average these 2 measurements to find the centered length of the stabilizer.
86) Firmly tack-weld one set of the provided tabs on the bottom of the passenger side frame rail. Measure the necessary distance between the tabs (stabilizer with spacers) and use washers to simulate this difference, adding about 1/16" for installation ease. Determine the location on the driver-side end of the drag link to mount the remaining tab(s). This tab will be mounted so the stabilizer will be centered with the steering centered. Firmly tack-weld the drag link tab(s) into place. Double check these measurements.
87) Install the stabilizer and check for clearance during steering cycle and suspension cycle. Adjust if necessary.
88) NOTE: The Fox stabilizer should be charged to 200psi with nitrogen only. The charged can be adjusted + or – 50psi.
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INSTALLING THE ORS BRAKE LINES AND HOSES

89) NOTE: Even when not using the ORS Brake Kit, we recommend plumbing the brakes using this method. This is safer by allowing large suspension movement without brake hose length/routing issues and protects the brake hoses from damage in coil-bind under compression.
90) Many trucks will have ABS. If wheel speed sensors are used on the new axle and the ABS will be retained, the ORS Brake Kit will not work. However, in this case we still recommend similar plumbing with the use of independent front circuits.
91) If the truck has ABS and the ABS will not be used we recommend removing the ABS actuator at this time (if not already done). Seal all lines leading to the master cylinder to prevent master cylinder drainage.
92) Carefully study the diagram to determine brake hydraulic routing. If necessary, route the brake lines from the master cylinder to the driver side frame rail according to the diagram.
93) From the 2 or 3-way front brake junction, start installing the provided hoses/lines according to the diagram and illustrations 36, 37 & 38. At every hose x line junction install a weld-on tab and clip. At this time only tack-weld the tabs for vehicle testing. Be sure to shield the brake hoses and lines while tack-welding.



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FINISH

94) Completely disassemble the suspension, steering, and brakes.
95) Outline the shock hoops where they meet the frame plates. Reference the width between the shock mounts and the height from the frame. Remove the shock hoops from the frame.
96) Install a stack of washers between the shock tabs to prevent warping. Fully weld the shock tabs to the shock hoops.
97) Re-position the shock hoops on the frame as they were. Double check all height and width measurements. Fully weld the shock hoops to the frame.
98) Fit the shock hoop gussets to the frame and hoop. See Illustration 39. Weld the shock hoop gussets into place. See Illustration 40.


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SHOCK CROSSOVER TUBE

99) If applicable, modify the shock hoop crossover notches to fit. Test to be sure that the engine and related components can still be serviced once the crossover components are installed. See illustration 41 & 42.


100) Weld the shock hoop crossover into place.
101) Fully weld all frame brackets.
102) Weld the upper plate on the UCA frame bracket to the frame plate from the inside (with cover removed). Install and weld the UCA Frame Bracket lower cover into place. See Illustration 43.

103) Lightly weld the brake line tabs to the control arms and the axle housing (if applicable).
104) Weld the bumpstop pads to the control arms.
105) Fully weld all axle brackets. ORS highly recommends welding the axle brackets a little at a time to avoid overheating and possibly warping the axle housing. Be sure to weld the inside and outside of the lower and upper control arm brackets, where accessible.
106) Clean the welds and surrounding areas with a wire wheel. If feeling ambitious, lightly scuff all surfaces by hand with sandpaper to aid in paint longevity. Wipe any excessive oil or residue from all surfaces and clean with soap and water. Thoroughly dry all metal surfaces.
107) Apply primer and paint to all bare metal on the frame, axle, and control arms. We also recommend painting any bare metal left on the inner fender-wells (where cut).
108) Charge the shocks with nitrogen per manufacturer’s recommendation (instructions included).
109) Install the coil springs on the shocks. Place the lightest spring on top. Place the divider between the coils, with the long sleeve upwards. To remove the lower coil platform, push the lower coil platform toward the top of the shock, then remove the retaining snap ring. Reverse the process to install.
110) Adjust the upper coil mount on the shocks until there is a little tension on the springs.
111) Once the paint has dried, re-install the suspension.
112) If conventional extended hoses are used on both sides, install the hoses into the calipers and bleed the system. Secure the hoses from the coil springs. During suspension compression the hoses could get caught and severed between the coils. Be sure the hoses cannot find their way there!
113) Install the steering stabilizer (if applicable).
114) If the ORS brake kit is used, re-install the lines and hoses. Tighten and secure all fittings. Bleed the brake system and check for any leaks. Repair any leaks found. Caution, brake fluid eats paint.
115) Install the high and low pressure power steering hoses between the pump and steering gear (be careful of orientation at gear). These are available at ORS. We recommend the use of 3/8" oil cooler hose for the return side. We also recommend the use of a small power steering cooler, such as a small auto trans auxiliary cooler.
116) These hoses should be routed below the radiator fan and secured to the frame brace tube or radiator shroud. See Illustrations.
117) Install the fuse box, battery, and intake. See Illustrations 44 & 45.


118) If necessary, relocate the EVAP canister to the passenger side of the engine compartment. Drill new holes in the fender-well and securely mount the canister. Extend the wiring harness for the EVAP electrical connectors. Using your notes from earlier, re-plumb the canister properly. See illustrations 46, 47, & 48. Move any other components that may interfere with the shock mounts to a suitable location.



119) If the weight of the components on the cut fender-wells is excessive, install a small tab on the shock tower to support the weight. Drill a hole in the fender-well and mount to the tab using a rubber isolator and bolt.
120) Using the provided isolators and clamps, mount the coilover reservoirs to the shock hoops. See Illustration 49.

121) Adjust the ride height by threading the upper coil mount up or down. If there is any free play in the springs when the shock is fully extended (Illustration 50), purchase and install a "tender coil" or "helper spring" and additional spacer to prevent coil free-play (Illustration 51).


122) Have a front driveshaft made and install. We have found the stock Tacoma front driveshaft modified to length works very well. Due to the nature of this suspension a long-travel slip is not needed. The stock Toyota yokes have proven to be very strong and offer a great deal of travel. If high-speed in 4WD is anticipated, use a double-cardan type driveshaft joint at the transfer case.
123) If applicable, grease all Johnny Joints and steering joints.
124) Be sure all suspension hardware, steering components, and brake hardware are properly torqued, fastened, and installed.
125) Test your new suspension one more time for clearance of all components throughout suspension cycle.
126) Fill all fluids. Start the engine. Bleed the power steering and cooling systems. Check for any leaks.
127) Double check for any brake leaks after the brake assist has been applied.
128) CONGRATULATIONS! Your suspension installation is complete!!
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NOTES

• Frequently check the torque and condition of all suspension components, especially after initial use and after regular abuse.
• The 2.5" Johnny Joints have a grease zerk. Use it. The joints will last longer./li>
• The smaller adjustable collar on the shock body is for spring rate adjustment. This stopper can be used to stop the compression of the lighter coil early so the heavier rate can be used sooner. Use this feature for further tuning if desired.
• Always inspect the entire suspension and steering system prior to a trail run or long trip. Things to check for: wear in the control arm/panhard joints, cracked welds or components, loose bolts, bent components, loose steering arms or mounting studs, etc.
• We recommend a toe setting of 1/8" toe out and +4 degrees caster when aligning.

Bolt Applications

• LCA Frame Mount – 5/8" x 8" bolt
• LCA Axle Mount (Heim) – 5/8" x 4 1/2" bolt
• LCA Axle Mount (Johnny Joint) – 9/16" grease-able bolt
• UCA Frame Mount – 5/8" x 4 1/2" bolt
• UCA Axle Mount (Heim) – 5/8" x 3 1/2" bolt
• UCA Axle Mount (Johnny Joint) – 9/16" grease-able bolt
• Panhard Frame Mount – 5/8" x 4" bolt
• Panhard Axle Mount – 5/8" x 3 1/2" bolt
• Shock Mounts – 1/2" x 3" bolt
• Upper Limit Strap – 1/2" x 1 1/2" bolt
• Lower Limit Strap – 1/2" x 4" bolt
• Steering Gear – 1/2" x 4 1/2" bolt

*NOTE: Every bolt will use a flat washer on each side and a lock washer under the nut. The only exception is the upper limit strap bolts which will use the provided lock nuts instead of lock washers.
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DIAMOND AXLE ORDER SPECS

• 64" (35" or smaller tires), 67" (37" or larger tires) WMS-WMS (width)
• Center of differential offset 7.5" to D/S from centerline
• 4 degrees positive caster, 5-8" lift (specify)
• High or low pinion? Specify.

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COMPLETED COILOVER SYSTEM PICTURES

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CAD DIAGRAMS

Tacoma Brake Layout
Diamond Axle Rear View
Diamond Axle Side View
Tacoma Frame D/S
Tacoma Frame D/S Inner
Tacoma Front Shock Layout

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